charge

Step 24: Charge batteries. The cells came around half full and I've driven some laps in the neighborhood. This charger, along with my motor controller, are from a 1981 Jet Electra. The charger is dual output, charging the 12V battery while powering the BMS. The BMS turns the charger off when the battery is full using a relay.  This charger could be put in the trunk and used at charging stations around town with the help of an adapter.  But the charge voltage profile combined with the number of cells I chose only allows for a trickle charge, a C/20 rate. Saving 20% capacity for long life a full charge will take 14 and a half hours. I don't expect to use a full charge everyday. 

I put the charger outlet behind the drivers front wheel, with a fuse at the battery. The location was partially chosen based on body damage in the vicinity.  Creepage and clearance was gained in the 7-pin connector by leaving an empty pin next to the high voltage pins.

After what seemed like forever she reached full charge. The BMS terminated the charge.

test drive

Step 23:  Go for a test drive.  Everything seems to work.  The next step is working out the charging system.

first ride goes to helper

wire batteries up

Step 22:  Wire batteries up.  These being expensive batteries I want to make sure they are protected from damage.  A battery management system (BMS) is employed.  A gracious EV-cohort donated an Elithion BMS needing only minimal additional components.  This BMS monitors voltage and temperature and disables the drive if a cell is in danger of being damaged.  It does the same during charge.  This BMS uses a small circuit board that attaches to each cell, these are daisy chained together and relay data to the BMS controller.  I've installed the BMS controller tucked up under the dash.  I will be able to view the status of the battery pack with my iPhone and a rs232 dongle.

front bank

rear bank, tucked into the back of the
trunk for good weight distribution

BMS controller, rat nests allowed

install batteries

Step 21:  Install batteries.  I picked up the cells and they look great.  They all have a listed capacity around 200Ah and an initial resistance reading around a quarter of a milliohm.  

The first task is to secure them in the car.  I'm simply using vinyl strapping to secure them to the plywood platforms already bolted in the car.  The 3rd picture is of the cells that will go in the trunk.

Tools acquired:  strapping tensioner and crimper

track batteries

Step 20:  Track batteries.  To save shipping costs I will pick the batteries up from the UPS freight terminal once they arrive.

order batteries

Step 19:  Order batteries.  This gets its own step.  A lot of the money in this car will be in its batteries.  I chose to order directly from CALB (China Aviation Lithium Battery) because they have a presence in California and my friend had met the salesman there a few years ago.  They had them in stock stateside and are packaging them up right now!  I'm getting 30 of the CA180FI cells.  It's going to be a very nice battery.

power cables

Step 18:  Make power cables.  I'm using 2/0 gauge.  The cables are orange, for easy identification.  To save money I painted black cable.  I'm going with the crimp-only crowd in the debate over the best way to make lug connections, copper to copper.  Adhesive lined shrink tubing is put over the cable-lug connection to keep it clean.  Anti oxidant grease is used when bolting lugs down.

Tools acquired: hammer crimper

There will be 8 cables:

• battery plus to main contactor
• main contactor to motor plus
• main contactor to motor controller plus (under car, in rear)
• mid-battery connection (under car)
• motor controller output to motor minus (under car)
• motor armature to motor field (pictured below)
• battery minus to emergency disconnect switch
• emergency disconnect switch to motor controller minus